Visiting Friends in San Miguel de Allende
It was time to beat the heat and get away from the coast for a while. We have dear friends who moved to San Miguel de Allende and we decided what better time to visit. We booked our flights on Volaris airlines and had an early morning departure with a late afternoon return 4 days later. We chose the flight to Queretaro - you can also fly Cancun to Leon or Mexico DF - because we wanted to see the Ruta de Vino y Ruta de Queso this trip.
Mike and I had spent 5 days in San Miguel on our road trip in 2019 and one night in Queretaro heading home from that same trip. We loved both places, though we had mostly done the touristy historic sites and shopping. This trip we wanted to delve a little deeper into both areas. During our first visit we were enamored by the architecture and the quaintness of the historic district. It really is a safe and beautiful place to visit, and it has so much more to experience than we were able to enjoy in a very short stay.
DAY ONE: Champagne, Cheese, Churros and Chocolate … Oh my!
Right off the plane we headed to the Ruta de Vino! What hit us both was that outside of San Miguel and Queretaro the countryside is like a combination of Napa Valley, California and Tuscany, Italy. The valley, the hills, the trees, the architecture, the vineyards and olive trees are very similar as is the dry, fresh climate.
Mexico’s wine industry is growing and with it so is its’ reputation. Freixenet, one of the top international wineries, arrived in Mexico in 1970 and its first vineyard was planted in 1978, producing its first sparkling wine in 1984. In 2000 they launched Vina Dona Dolores and Vivante – and started producing still wines. Since then, they have gone on to win many awards for their wines. Freixenet was our first stop, a short distance from the airport. It is a beautiful winery, well worth a visit. From the vineyard you can see the mountains around you and an incredible view of Pena de Bernal, a 433 meter (1421 ft) monolith, one of the tallest in the world.
This valley is not only known for its Ruta de Vino but also its Ruta de Queso. Hungry from our morning flight and wine tour, we decided to head to Cava Bocanegra in Tequisquiapan. This small but lovely cheese producer offers drinks and incredible charcuterie options with a great variety of cheese. We sat outside, enjoying the view and filled up on cheeses and snacks. We also purchased a number of items so we could enjoy our own charcuterie later in the week.
Each year there is a wine and cheese festival in this area and we are going to make sure we add that to our bucket list!
Tired and full, we headed to San Miguel de Allende to get settled at our friends’ house and rest before going to town for dinner.
Much to our surprise, many restaurants are closed on Tuesdays, but we enjoyed wandering through town and the zocolo. Claudia and Gil knew the perfect spot that they felt certain would be open. As soon as we approached we realized we had been there and were thrilled to return to one of our favorite spots from our first visit to San Miguel. San Agustin, known for its chocolates and churros, also has great dinner menu. We had a wonderful meal, which we of course topped of with hot chocolates and churros, while gazing at the Templo de San Francisco de Asis, just across the street.
Can you think of a better first day with good friends than one with Champagne, cheeses, churros and chocolate, all in a gorgeous setting?
DAY TWO Artistry at Fabrica La Aurora and City Market
Our first full day began with a lovely walk in Gil and Claudia’s neighborhood. The cobblestone roads are a challenge at first, but you quickly get the hang of it and realize what a great workout it is. Of course the hillside views and the beautiful architecture make any walk a little easier on the legs.
After breakfast we headed to one of Claudia’s favorite places, Fabrica La Aurora, Centro de Arte y Diseno. For nine centuries this area was known for its textile manufacturing. Converted in 2004, today it is one of San Miguel’s main attractions. This art and design center houses all types of art galleries, as well as antique shops, workshops, clothing stores, jewelers and restaurants. You could literally spend days wandering and not experience all it has to offer. It opens every day at 10AM. Whether you are looking for that one-of-a-kind work of art or just love browsing and seeing some amazing pieces of art you won’t be disappointed. The plus side is you often get to meet the artist and talk to them about their work. It is all housed in the remains of the once vital, huge textile factory. We found many great food options too and the one we chose didn’t disappoint. We timed our lunch perfectly as the skies opened up and the rain poured just as we were eating.
After lunch Gil and Claudia took us to see the area where they are building their new home. San Miguel de Allende really offers something for everyone. I can see why it has become so popular for Mexicans, Expats and tourists. Centrally located, it is close to many places in the heart of Mexico. It is a small city with many of the best things a big city can offer. Speaking of that, our next stop was City Market! No, not the local-type market, think a high end Whole Foods. Kroger’s has a City Market in South Miami that I love. This could be its Mexican Sister store, owned by La Comer. The minute I walked inside I smiled and giggled with excitement. Mike was pleased we had brought only our carry-on luggage so he didn’t have to worry about me going wild. We decided to buy a few items to add to our charcuterie board for dinner. I’m sure not a lot of people would put a grocery store on their must-do list, but I certainly would!
That evening we relaxed, dined al fresco on our amazing charcuterie options from the last two days, and sipped some amazing Mexican wines. A perfect ending to a fantastic day.
DAY THREE – Casa De Las Ranas, The Chapel of Jimmy Ray Gallery and San Francisco Winery
Day two was spent perusing the works of various artists. This day was spent admiring one man, his art and his legacy. Casa de las Ranas was the home of Anado, an eccentric, eclectic and magical creator of not only art but a livable wonderland. Located in the village of LA Cieneguita, just outside of San Miguel, it is a compound created by Anado and his husband Richard that cannot be described but should certainly be experienced. Anado’s medium was mosaic art. What he did with broken pieces was to create a beauty beyond words. The outside of the house, the walls, the railings, the gallery, the compost toilet, the path – it just goes on and on. Jimmy Ray Gallery is just one element of this amazing compound, and it hosts a number of amazing artists with rotating showings. We were told the parties they throw for a new showing are not to be missed. Anado passed in 2021 but his legacy will continue for a very long time to come.
To keep with our theme of over the top we headed to San Francisco Winery for an amazing meal. As full of color as our first stop was, San Francisco Winery is the perfect compliment to its vineyard and the nature around it. Were we in Napa Valley, Tuscany or central Mexico? The architecture of the homes would fit beautifully in any of these places. The trees, vineyards and flowers don’t give away which setting you are in. The hotel and restaurant welcome you as only Mexico can but the 5-star service is the same as we have experienced in all three locations.
The wine was divine! The food incredible and the view spectacular. Our only complaint was we ate way too much. Be warned that when you come here they will serve you much more than what is mentioned on the menu. The menu is so enticing that we all decided we wanted to start with soups. We tried the gazpacho, cream of cauliflower, and cream of jalapeno, all excellent. The main course options were amazing, with a large selection of fish, poultry, pork, beef and pasta. In addition to our orders, they also brought us an assortment of olives, bread and fresh cherry tomatoes, all paired perfectly with our wine. That was followed by with a gorgeous charcuterie platter. You can imagine how we felt by the end our main course. No one said we had to eat it all – but how could we not?
DAY FOUR – Artisan Market, Cien Fuegos and Sunset on the Rosewood Rooftop
No visit to San Miguel is complete without a stop at the local artisan Market. Yes, it is touristy, but I do love wandering the aisles, seeing the wares and meeting the locals. Many items are mostly souvenirs, but you can also find some very interesting pieces.
Hungry after shopping, we decided to have a quiet lunch at Cien Fuegos. After overindulging the day before, I opted for an amazing salad with roasted cauliflower and beets on a bed of baby greens and pureed veggies. Everyone was pleased with their choices and the prices were great too. We recommend you start with their twist on guacamole.
To top off this amazing day we headed to the Rosewood Rooftop for a cocktail and to watch the sunset over this incredibly beautiful city. I love all the amazing art there is in San Miguel and it is amazing that it all began back in the 1930s with an artist exchange program with the US. The city welcomes and thrives because of its artists like few places in the world; but I think its most stunning artistry is the sun setting over this historic city.
DAY FIVE – Villa Bonita for Breakfast and Fly home
We couldn’t leave without seeing our friend, Angelica Olvera, who we met in Puerto Aventuras. She is a musician and works with local Chiapas women selling their handmade linens and clothes. Angelica is originally from Queretaro and now lives there part of the year. She agreed to meet us for breakfast and suggested Villa Bonita. Set on the outskirts, the views are amazing at this simple, local restaurant. The food was delicious and extremely reasonable. What I loved the most was the view of the hills, the lush green and the small valley where Angelica played as a small child. After dinner she took us to her home and small shop. It was like the frosting on a perfect cake to end our trip here.
Queretaro Airport is very easy to manage and our flight back to Cancun was smooth. We will certainly visit this part of Mexico again. It is the perfect getaway from the heat and humidity of the Caribbean, especially in September and after the extremely hot summer we have had. Flights in and around Mexico make it very tempting and easy to travel within the country. Next on our list is Guadalajara at the end of November.